Some blisters can be directly attributed to the application process. Only those products recommended by Perma-Chink Systems should be used as backing materials for Perma-Chink Log Home Chinking, and never apply Perma-Chink directly over bare wood. These materials out-gas and as they do, they can form blisters in the soft, uncured chinking. This includes blue board, pink board, and other colored EPS (expanded polystyrene) foam and bare wood. This problem is usually easy to diagnose, since the blister will start to form in the middle of the product, and if the blister is cut away, you can still see chinking under the blister.Īnother common cause of blisters is chinking over unsuitable backing materials. The surface quickly skins over, preventing the water vapor from escaping from the underlying material. The first is whenever chinking is applied in hot, direct sunlight. There are several causes of blisters forming in uncured chinking. If you want to change the color of your chinking this would be a good time to do it. Typically, the Chink Painted areas will be cleaner and brighter than the old, existing chinking, so you’ll probably want to Chink Paint all of the chinking to renew the look of your entire home. It’s a little easier to work with, but since Energy Seal has a different texture and does not come in the same colors as Perma-Chink it will be necessary to Chink Paint over it. In the case of older chinking in need of repair, Energy Seal™ may be substituted for Perma-Chink. This will help match the texture of the chinking repair with the surrounding cured chinking. Now use a small, cheap paintbrush with the bristles cut to about 2” long, dip it into some water to get the bristles wet, then work the chinking smooth with the brush. Once it’s applied, you can press it into place with a tool or your finger. Put a bead of chinking along the tear, making sure that you have good contact with the torn chinking and the wood. It’s easier to make a repair using a tube of chinking or a bulk loading gun than it is to scoop some out of a pail. You don’t want any dirt to interfere with the adhesion of the chinking. Start by making sure the area that you are going to repair is good and clean. The reason for this is that on long tears the chinking tends to sag out, and there is no way to hold it in place while the repaired area cures. Our rule of thumb is that if a tear is less than one foot long, it can be repaired, and if it is more than one foot, the chinking should be cut out and replaced. If you do, the added layer will probably develop blisters in it. You won’t be able to apply another layer of Perma-Chink on top of what’s already there to bring it to the proper thickness. If you find that the thickness all along the top edge is consistently less than 1/8” you may be faced with constant repairs, and it will be better to cut it out and start over again. Before making any repairs, you need to determine if the chinking was properly applied in the first place.
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